Can snakes be raised for their eggs

Guide to the reproduction and breeding of snakes

Snake advisor

Raising snakes is a demanding and time-consuming task. Laypeople should not breed without professional guidance and seek advice on the most important issues. offers you a first approach and shows you the preliminary considerations in this guide and guides you through the period from pregnancy to after birth.

Preliminary considerations, preparation

Breeding snakes is time-consuming and demanding.

Snakes try to mate before they reach sexual maturity. However, early pregnancy can lead to problems such as very small eggs, premature births, and stillbirths. The animals should therefore be reared separately according to sex and only brought together at the age of two and a half years. Sick and weakened animals may not be mated.
Determine the sex of your animals for successful reproduction. The penis pockets of the male after the cloaca towards the tail can be seen well. The sex can be determined with certainty via the so-called probing, which only a veterinarian is allowed to carry out.
Keep snakes separate from hibernation (or three months before mating season for non-hibernating animals). During the mating season, the males join the females, who release a pheromone. The socialization of a female with several males increases the willingness to reproduce. The animals that were defeated in the following fights must be removed from the terrarium.

Mating and birth

The mating can be observed in the morning or evening hours. The male follows the female through the terrarium until she is in the mood. The actual act lasts between 30 minutes and several hours. Several more attempts at pairing follow. Don't bother any of them! If the animals are forced to flee, they can injure their sexual organs. After successful fertilization, the gestation period for egg-laying species is around 50 days, for oviparous species between 100 and 180 days.
Provide the snake with a suitable place to lay its eggs. A plastic box filled with moss with a loophole, for example, is suitable for this purpose. The female will lay the eggs there when it is slightly humid and at a sufficient temperature (approx. 28 °).

The hatchlings hatch and hatch

Prepare the incubator a few days before the eggs are laid. The incubators available in the classifieds are suitable for most snake eggs. In addition, brood bowls filled with brood substrate (vermiculite and water in a ratio of 2: 1).
Once the eggs have been deposited, carefully place them in the incubator. Do not turn the eggs under any circumstances! Reptile eggs must be embedded in the same position as found. The temperature should be 26-28 ° (Pythons 29-31 °), the humidity at 95%. This is of particular importance because development is faster at higher temperatures and produces more males, and vice versa at lower temperatures. An average temperature is recommended for a balanced ratio. Unfertilized eggs will mold or dry up. However, they do not endanger the healthy.
Shortly before hatching, sweat forms on the egg shell. Now cover the brood bowls with gauze to prevent the young animals from escaping. A day later, the snakes stick their heads out of their eggs and stay in this position for another day.
After the birth of viviparous species, the animals must be taken out of the terrarium and washed in lukewarm water. Then they are housed individually in small terrariums. This also applies to the other species after they have fully hatched.


First keep the young individually in small terrariums. The temperatures should be in relation to large terrariums. The animals shed their skin for the first time after ten days. This is the time when you will feed the animal for the first time. Most snakes will feed on themselves. If you refuse to feed, there are a few tricks to get you to do it: Leave the dead animal in the terrarium overnight. Wash it off and rub it down with weed. Open the skull of the food animal so that the brain emerges. If dead animals are not accepted, try live food animals. In the worst case, the animals have to be force-fed, but only by the veterinarian.
Snakes are not animals to cuddle, but need security and, above all, rest. Young animals are very agile and can escape easily. They also have a tendency to bite the hand of their holder. Never touch a snake if you have touched a food animal before. It is best to always disinfect your hands.

Pre-Selling Checklist

Before you advertise your snake easily and free of charge on, go through the following checklist.

  • the terrarium must be neat and tidy
  • It is essential that the snake is in excellent health - this includes the following points in particular
  • the snake must be well fed
  • it must not lie on its side (except pregnant animals; here, however, the oviposition must be awaited)
  • it must be free from parasites
  • Breathing sounds must not be heard
  • the spine must be undamaged
  • the mouth is closed and free of mucus
  • the body is free of tumors and lumps
  • Remnants of the moult are signs of poor care
  • the cesspool is not encrusted
  • Allow two to three days to pass between the last feeding and the sale
  • Young animals should already be ready for food

Now nothing stands in the way of selling your snake. Have fun and success raising and selling your animals!


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